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Marc Bohan (AP Photo/Pierre Godot)

Marc Bohan (1926–2023), Dior signature designer

by Eric San Juan

Marc Bohan was a French fashion designer whose 30 years with Christian Dior made the line an icon of simple, elegant design. 

Marc Bohan’s legacy 

Bohan was introduced to fashion at an early age by his mother, who designed and made hats. He went into the fashion industry at 19, spending four years working for designer Robert Piguet before becoming an assistant to Edward Molyneux. After becoming a designer in his own right, Bohan worked for Madeleine de Rauch, Jean Patou, and his own shop. However, securing a position at Christian Dior is what led to his enduring legacy in fashion. 

Bohan joined Christian Dior in 1958 and started by creating for their London line. When Dior’s then-overall creative director Yves Saint Laurent (1936–2008) left to serve in the military, Bohan was promoted as his replacement. He turned his back on the boundary-pushing fashion of the day, instead focusing on simple lines, elegant cuts, and a more conservative approach to design. His work was embraced by icons like Elizabeth Taylor (1932–2011), Sophia Loren, and Grace Kelly (1929–1982). His 30-year tenure at Dior was the longest in the house’s history, longer than even Christian Dior himself. 

Bohan left Dior in 1989, working with Norman Hartnell in London for several years before designing under his own name. His honors include the Sports Illustrated Designer of the Year Award, the Schiffli Lace and Embroidery Institute Award, and the Chevalier de la Legion d’Honneur. The 2018 book, “Bohan’s Dior: 1961 to 1989,” by Jérôme Hanover, chronicles his time at Dior. 

Notable quote 

“I make clothes for real women, not myself, not for mannequins and not for fashion magazines.”—from a 1983 interview in WWD: Women’s Wear Daily 

Tributes to Marc Bohan 

Full obituary: The New York Times 

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